Home Energy Savings
Written by Dave Barth, 1987 (updated in 2007)
Introduction
Nearly all homes in the world require one or more man-made sources of energy to provide a comfortable and secure environment for the occupants. Some
homes, such as "all electric" homes get by on only one source, but most require a fossil fuel (heating oil, natural gas, or coal) in addition to electricity. Electricity
is usually generated by burning fossil fuel, so when you use electricity, you are indirectly using fossil fuels. (Less than 1/4 of U. S. electricity is generated
by nuclear power).
The reason there is so much interest in energy conservation is because it is in limited supply, and the earth's natural resources are gradually running out. Until
the mid 21st Century, we won't have to worry about not having energy, but we will experience increasing energy prices.
The first energy crisis occurred in the early 1970s when the foreign producers of oil decided to raise the prices of that product by controlling output, and
prices increased from around $5 per barrel to over $30. Since the U. S. imported nearly half of the crude oil it used, the price increase caused turmoil in the
energy markets and pushed U. S. inflation to over 10 percent.
The U. S. began to reduce its dependency on foreign oil, and its foreign consumption was pushed below 15 percent. World oil prices plummeted, and we
became careless once again regarding our dependency on foreign oil. The next round of higher energy prices is coming, and we need to consider what we can
do to keep our home energy requirements as low as possible.
Reducing Our Waste Of Energy
"Turn down the thermostat" is probably the most often heard suggestion where energy savings is discussed, and for good reason. There is a tendency to wear
very light clothing around the house during the winter months, and keep the house warmer to compensate, because we are used to cheap energy. Instead, we can
wear more clothing indoors and keep the inside air temperature at around 65. It takes a little time to get used to a cooler house, but the energy savings over the long
run can be substantial compared to keeping the temperature at, say, 75. You can wear a light sweater or a sports vest for warmth. For sitting around reading or watching
television, it is nice to throw a quilt or blanket over yourself. In addition, running the home cooler puts less demand on the heating system, which can extend
its life.
During the summer months, "turn up the thermostat" is good advice if you have an air conditioner. The object is to run an air conditioner as little as possible to
maintain a moderate comfort level. If you are thinking about installing an air conditioner, consider alternative cooling systems such as swamp coolers and attic fans
which may use less energy to operate and have a lower initial cost.
When deciding what temperature to choose, remember that you must consider the individual needs of each occupant of the household. Aged, very young, or ill
persons may not be able to tolerate temperature extremes. In such cases, consult a physician before changing the temperature in your home.
Alternative Sources Of Energy
During the 1970s many small companies came into existence to provide alternative energy systems. Some of these included wind generators, solar collection
systems, greenhouses, and various insulating devices.
If you decide to evaluate any such system, calculate the amount of savings per month in energy costs, using a conservative estimate, and divide that
number into the total cost of the system to determine how many months will be required to reach the "break even" point. Some systems are so expensive
that it would require many years to reach break-even.
Calculating energy costs is difficult, at best, because home energy requirements vary so much, month to month. The best estimates are those based on
measurements taken over a period of time. Your power company may be able to provide you with the average amount you are billed for energy each month. Call
your utility company for information.
Be wary of money savings claims made regarding alternative energy devices or insulation products. There are too many factors involved to make any specific
estimates of the amount of money you might save by installing a product. Some factors that should be considered are:
- Do you live in Fairbanks or Phoenix?
- Is your home a bungalow or a mansion?
- Is the house 5 or 75 years old?
- Is it well insulated already?
- Are the windows tight and double-glazed or are they single-glazed and poorly fitted?
- Do you live in an area that gets a lot of sunlight during the year or one that receives relatively little?
- Is the next winter going to be mild or harsh?
Questions like these defy attempts to guarantee or even suggest what you might save if you purchase and install an item unless you carefully study the
situation and have performance data of the item in a home similar to yours in the same area of the country.
Insulation
The biggest robber of energy in most homes is the loss of heat through the roof, walls, windows, and doors. Check the depth of insulation in the attic. If it
has settled or is very thin in places, consider adding some more. As a rule of thumb, attic insulation should be at least six inches thick. Insulation comes in
strips of fiberglass rolled up into large rolls or in loose form that can be blown into the attic through a large hose. You may wish to have the insulation installed by
professionals or you may do it yourself by renting the proper equipment. Insuring adequate insulation in the attic is one of the most important things you can do to
save energy.
Resistance Value
Energy efficiency in the home is measured as an "R" (resistance) value. It is a measure of the ability to retard heat flow. The higher the value, the better the
insulation. Attic insulation usually requires a higher "R" value than that in the walls because heat tends to rise and exit through the roof. So, the "R" value of
insulation in the walls may be less than that in the attic. In general, an "R" value of 19 (about six inches of insulation) is adequate for an attic.
Many older homes had no insulation installed in the walls when the house was built. Correcting this situation can be done by boring three or four inch diameter
holes in the walls (normally from outside the house) and blowing insulation in. Another option, if siding is to be applied to the outside of the house, is to place sheets
of Styrofoam or other insulating sheets between the exterior of the house and the new siding. The cost of such projects is usually considerable. If the walls are fairly
tight, and no cold air drafts are noticeable from baseboards, electrical sockets, or around window frames, insulating the walls may not be that important.
Also, insulation blown into a wall may cause condensation to collect at the base of it. New homes often have a sheet of plastic attached to the studs
before the sheetrock walls are put in place to try to reduce the condensation problem. Contact an insulation professional for information regarding your
situation.
Weather Stripping And Caulking
Weather stripping around doors and window frames can reduce heat loss if there are air leaks. One method used to test for leaks is to hold a silk cloth,
very lightweight cloth, or toilet paper near the windows and doors when the wind is blowing outside. Air leaks will disturb the item. Do not use a candle, match, or
other open flame to test for air leaks because they can be a fire hazard. Weather stripping can be installed by you or by a professional. Caulking is also a good way to
plug air leaks. It may be purchased in small toothpaste size tubes or in the larger tubes that fit in an inexpensive "gun" that pushes the caulk out the
tip.
Electrical Outlet Leaks
One common source of cold air is electrical outlets. The easiest way to check leakage from them is to remove the plastic cover. You may use the cloth strip
method to check for airflow or hold the palm of your hand near the opening. Dampening your palm will make it more sensitive to air flow. If you detect cold air, then
you may wish to attempt to caulk between the outlet box and the wall, although the results are not usually successful because of the difficulty getting the caulking to
fill the holes properly. One handy caulking material is a foam that comes in an aerosol can. It exits the nozzle on the can looking like colored shave cream and
hardens to a stiff, lightweight substance. Because it is unsightly, its use is normally restricted to areas that will be covered or otherwise invisible.
Drapes
Drapes can make some difference in the warmth of a room, especially near the windows. Drawing the drapes when it is cold outside and there is little thermal
heat coming in the window (especially at night) can reduce drafts. Regular household drapes are not efficient insulators, but they do trap some air. The best solution
to a very drafty or cold window is the use of thermal drapes that fit tightly against the window sill and frame to provide a good insulating volume of air between the drape
and the window. However, they are expensive, require careful installation, and may not match the desired decor of your home. As with other energy saving devices,
it is best to attempt to make an honest evaluation of the actual energy savings and the pay-back of such an investment before plunking down your hard-earned
money.
Dual Temperature Thermostats
Dual temperature thermostats are available to automatically reduce the house temperature at night. They may be installed by you or a professional. The true
value of such a thermostat can be debated. To a great extent, it really depends on the difference between the day and night temperatures it is set to. If the day
setting is 70 degrees and the night setting is 50, the furnace gets a chance to loaf during the night as the house temperature drops from 70 to 50. However, the
next morning, the furnace must make up the difference by working extra hard to get the temperature from 50 back up to 70. The question of comfort comes into
this discussion, too. Do you really want the house to be colder at night? And, if so, how much colder? If you always manually adjust the thermostat downward
before going to bed, and you would like an automatic unit to do it for you, then the automatic thermostat is a good buy. And, it may save some
energy.
Varying Temperatures Depending On Location
Most central heating systems allow individual room temperature settings to be made. This can save energy by providing less heat to rooms that need less heat.
Examples of rooms that might need less warmth are the kitchen (a lot of heat is generated by the stove, oven, refrigerator, and dish washer), bedrooms (they are often
used only for sleeping, and blankets provide warmth), and rooms that are rarely used for sitting. Reduction of heat to these rooms may be accomplished by turning
down the room thermostat if the heating system provides one, or closing the hot air duct for that room where it leaves the furnace, or closing the register in the
room.
Heat saved in less-used rooms can be made available to rooms that require a bit more heat to maintain a comfort level such as the most often used bathrooms,
rooms used for lounging or reading, and TV rooms. In these rooms people spend a lot of time sitting, and a person's body puts out less heat when at
rest.
Furnace Pilot Lights
Although some persons may consider turning the pilot light off on furnaces or water heaters during periods when the units are not in use (turning off the pilot
light in furnaces during summer and water heaters during vacations) there are other factors to consider other than energy usage. The energy used by a pilot light
is minimal; it keeps the unit ready for instant use; it keeps the combustion chamber drier, reducing the effect of corrosion; and it keeps insects out of the
immediate vicinity of the pilot light, helping keep the chamber clear of webs and particles.
In the event you do elect to turn off the pilot light, be sure you either know precisely how to turn it on or have a professional come to your home to re light it. If
you are interested in the amount of money saved by cutting off the pilot light, compare the cost of your utility bills for the period of time when it was left off with that
of the same number of days when it was on.
Furnace Filters
One of the most inexpensive energy saving things that can be done to prepare for winter is cleaning or replacing the furnace filter. Most central heating units have a
cleanable or disposable filter that collects dust and dirt particles in the air so that they are not blown throughout the home when the furnace fan runs. If this filter gets
very dirty, the furnace will become less efficient causing it to run for longer periods of time to maintain the selected temperature. Cleanable filters should be cleaned
in accord with the furnace manufacturer's recommendations. Disposable filters are available at most hardware stores and building supply houses. Be sure to measure
your old filter or take it with you when you go purchase a replacement so that you will be assured of getting the proper size. If you are unsure of the location of your
filter or the recommended procedures for maintaining it, contact a furnace professional. Many older houses that have gravity furnaces that do not use a fan may not
have a filter because air is distributed throughout the house by the rising of warm air, and a filter might impede heat distribution.
Storm Doors And Windows
Storm doors and windows are another popular energy saving item. However, their value depends on the quality of your present windows, the quality of the
storm windows you install, and how well they are installed. If you currently have single pane, metal frame windows that leak, then storm windows might be a
good buy. Again, consider the cost of the storm windows and the amount of money you expect to save. The pay back period may be several years. If you
plan to live in the house for a long time, the investment may be worthwhile. However, if you plan to sell the house within a few years, you may not get back the
additional expense of the storm windows when you sell.
Interior windows that have wood frames and double (or triple) glazing are usually superior to metal framed, single-glazed windows. Storm windows are usually
single-glazed and have aluminum frames so that they are light enough to be more easily attached to the house. Quality of construction varies, however, and you
should be wary of a storm window that is built with narrow strips of metal or wood around the glass. Pulling or pushing on that strip to open and close the storm
window can cause it to pull away from the glass. Also, do not place too much importance on the guarantees offered by the storm window company. Many of these
companies go out of business each Summer.
An alternative to expensive storm windows is the kit containing a plastic sheet sold by some hardware and department stores. Some kits are attached to the
outside of the windows and some go on the inside. Many reduce the visibility of the window, so you might consider buying enough for one window to see if you like it.
The principal used to save energy is the same as with storm windows: to trap air so that it acts as an insulating barrier. When warm weather returns, the plastic
sheets may be removed and tossed out or saved for next winter.
Finally, older windows can be replaced by double or triple-glazed windows that provide less heat loss, although this is usually the most expensive
option.
Electricity Usage
Electricity usage is often high on the list of possible energy waste. Electricity should be used as sparingly as possible. Unlike a heating unit that can be set to a
given temperature, electric appliances and lights can easily be overused. To see the effect of electricity usage, during the day, turn off all your lights and electric
appliances (except for those such as your furnace that should be left on). Go to the electric meter and watch it. It will be turning very slowly, if at all. Then
turn on some appliances and lights. The meter should be rotating faster. The faster the meter turns, the higher the electricity usage. This demonstration
can be shown to children as part of a lesson in saving electricity.
Some items that we take for granted are often heavy users of electricity such as electric blankets and water bed heaters. Although you might not wish to revert
to using old fashioned blankets to keep warm at night, it is good to be aware of the places your energy dollar is spent. Note that you should not turn off your water
bed heater without first consulting your physician. Sleeping on a cold body of water can be a health hazard.
Emergency Electricity Needs
Although the subject of this paper is energy savings, it is important to note that many gas or oil-fired furnaces must have electrical power to operate. Without
electricity, most of them will fail to provide heat. The pilot light will usually remain on during an electrical outage, but the furnace will be unable to distribute heat to
the house because the thermostat and blower require electrical power to operate.
The solution to this problem is not an easy one. Some persons have installed batteries and inverters to provide emergency power to the thermostat circuit,
others have put in a generator powered by gasoline, natural gas, or propane. Small generators will provide barely enough power for the thermostat while large
units can actually provide all of the electricity needs of the entire home. The cost of generator power rises geometrically with the size of the unit,
however. Perhaps the most important electrical items that should be kept running are the furnace (in winter), the refrigerator, and the freezer. There have been
instances where an ice storm eliminated electrical power to one side of a street, but the other side still had power. In more than one case, a person on the
side without electricity borrowed electricity from a friend across the street by plugging a long extension cord to the friend's house and running it across the
street to his own home.
If the furnace blower fan is inoperable, a safety circuit may not allow the furnace to operate to prevent it from overheating. In any case, if you wish to provide
emergency electrical power to run your oil or gas fired furnace during an electrical blackout, contact a professional for more information on your specific needs
and the costs that would be associated with such a solution.
Some home owners, especially in rural areas, have installed electrical generation units that detect a power outage and turn on automatically to maintain electricity
to critical components in the house such as the furnace and the refrigerator. Some people have a unit large enough to provide enough power to supply all of the
electrical needs in the home.
Lights
A great deal of energy can be saved by simply turning off all unnecessary appliances and lights. It requires a little time to get used to switching a light off when
you leave a room, but it soon becomes natural. Many television sets are designed to show a picture almost immediately after being turned on. This capability is not
without cost, however. They draw some power even when turned off to make this feature work. To test this concept, unplug your such a television and wait half an
hour. Then plug it in, turn it on, and note how much longer it takes to bring up a the picture. This feature may or may not be important in choosing a television. It
might be a good energy saving tip to unplug your television prior to leaving on vacation. The energy loss from this type of television may not be an important factor
for you.
For the same illumination, florescent lights require less electricity than light bulbs. Before you rush out and buy a bunch of florescent fixtures to replace your
incandescent bulb fixtures, consider the replacement cost compared to the amount of energy saved. Also, some persons are sensitive to the rapid blinking of
florescent lights, unnoticeable to most people. Florescent light is usually whiter than the warmer, more yellow light given off by incandescent bulbs. Finally, the
extra power used by incandescent bulbs is given off as heat. In winter, the additional heat is a very small source of additional warmth. So, the decision of whether
to install a florescent light or an incandescent bulb should usually be based on factors other than energy usage except in buildings requiring massive amounts of
lighting.
Toward the end of the 20th Century, miniature flourescent bulbs that screwed into an ordinary light socket were introduced. In the beginning, they were very expensive to
purchase, but prices have dropped considerably. A flourescent bulb that provides the same illumination as an incandescent bulb uses approximately 1/4 of the
power. This is an advantage for two reason. First, less energy is used for the same amount of light. Second, many light fixtures have a limitation on the power rating
of the bulbs that can be used in them to prevent them from overheating and causing a fire. The advantage of using flourescent bulbs is that brighter bulbs can be
installed that use less power than ordinary incandescent bulbs.
Appliances
The biggest users of electricity, such as self-cleaning ovens (especially during the cleaning process), stoves, washing machines, microwaves and
clothes dryers should be used sparingly. You should be aware that they are big energy eaters, and use them accordingly. Newer appliances are designed
to use less energy. For example, newer electric stoves and ovens heat up more slowly than older models to reduce energy consumption. In one case, it was shown
that an older oven required 10 minutes to heat to 350 degrees fahrenheit, but a newer model required 35 minutes to reach the same temperature.
To get the highest performance from your appliances requires some advance planning. For example, a dishwasher, washing machine, and a clothes drier may be
most efficient when they are run with a full load. Hand washing a small number of easily washed clothing items or dishes might be
preferable, from an energy conservation viewpoint, to running the appliance when it is nearly empty. Defrosting food prior to cooking it results in less energy used.
Defrosting food in a microwave is much less energy efficient than allowing the product to defrost in the refrigerator or at room temperature. (Be sure to follow safe
food preparation practices when defrosting to prevent spoilage.)
Water Heaters
Water heaters usually have a thermostat to set the temperature. They can be set to a temperature that provides water hot enough to take care of your normal
household needs such a baths, showers, and laundry. If the hot water supply often runs out, you may have to increase the temperature setting. If the water comes
out of the taps steaming, and it is scalding hot, a reduction of the temperature may be in order. If you have guests arriving, and you expect the hot water demands
to increase during their visit, you can increase the temperature setting for the duration of their visit. It is a good idea to have plenty of very hot water available if you
will have Japanese guests bathing at your home because they are used to very hot baths. Be sure to reduce the thermostat after the guests leave.
One item you might consider for your water heater is a "blanket." Blankets sold commercially consist of insulation (usually fiberglass) that is cut to fit around
the heater. Such kits often include tape that may be used to attach the blanket to your water heater. You may also make your own insulating blanket from rolls of
insulation sold at building supply companies. Duct tape can be used to attach the insulation to the heater. The purpose of the blanket is to reduce the loss of heat
from the water in the heater. A water heater blanket may be something you can do without because, if the heater is inside the house, its heat loss will warm the
home, slightly reducing the load on the furnace. Also, most water heaters are fairly well insulated in the way they are constructed. It is doubtful that you will notice
much difference in your utility costs after installing a heater blanket. However, in theory, it is a good idea, and it doesn't cost much. As a safety consideration,
when working with fiberglass, consider wearing a breathing filter over your nose and mouth and wear protective gloves.
Baths and Showers
It is often said that a shower takes about half the amount of water that a bath requires, but this estimate is really loose because it depends on how long
a person showers, the number of water nozzles in the shower, how deep a person fills a tub, the size of the tub, and the temperature of the water that is selected.
Again, it would probably be difficult to see a change in your utility bills if everyone in the household switched from baths to showers. In general, showers probably
take a little less water than a tub, but it is probably not a great factor in home energy use.
Another recommendation that is sometimes heard in regard to baths is to leave the water in the tub after you are finished bathing so that the heat that is left in it
will escape into the home and help heat it. This is a great idea, in theory, but there are some additional factors to consider. If the water is allowed to drain, its
heat may be transferred to the house through the drain pipes. Leaving a tub of water could be a hazard if there are small children in the house. A tub of water will
result in some evaporation and it could raise the humidity level in the house. This could be detrimental or beneficial. If perfumed soaps or additives are used when
bathing, these odors may permeate the house. The tub may be a bit more difficult to clean after water has been sitting in it for a time. It may be inconvenient to
have to wait for the tub to drain and then clean it before filling it for the next bath. And, finally, what will guests and visitors think when they walk into your bathroom
and see a tub of cold, soapy water that has not been drained? If a significant energy savings could result from this procedure, it might be worthwhile. Trying to
measure the savings might be difficult.
Insulating Hot Water Pipes
Many hardware and building materials stores sell foam rubber tubes that will fit around the hot water pipes in your home. The tubes are four to six feet in length,
and they can be cut to size with scissors. These lightweight tubes are excellent insulators. The are hollow in the center and have a slit down their length for easy fitting
around a pipe. Of course, only those pipes that are easily accessible can be covered with this insulation, but it could save some energy in the long run. The heat
lost through a hot water pipe into the home is not really important, but when you have to run the water from a faucet for a long time to finally get hot water, you are
wasting both the water and the energy it took to heat it.
The best time to insulate hot water pipes is when the house is being built. Few builders insulate hot water pipes during construction. However, persons who are
having a home built could visit the site (with the builder's permission) and insulate the hot water pipes with insulation tubes before the walls are covered with
sheetrock. After the interior walls of a home have been installed, it hardly makes sense to rip holes in them to insulate the pipes, but you can cover the pipes that
are visible in the crawl space or basement, under sinks, and anywhere else you can get access to a hot water pipe.
If a water pipe is exposed to cold outside air temperatures, the water can freeze and cause the pipe to crack. Water leakage occurs when the ice in the pipe
thaws. If the length of the pipe is not long, a short term solution is to wrap it with electrical heating cable which looks somewhat like a heavy duty extension
cord.
A more energy-efficient solution is to enclose the space around the pipe, insulate it, and open the area to warm air from the house. In very cold weather, even
pipes in the outside walls of the house may freeze. If you are going on vacation or closing the house during cold weather, you might consider shutting the water off
to the house and draining the water out of the pipes in the house. (Check with a qualified plumber who has the equipment to blow air into the pipes to force water
out of the system.)
Another solution to help prevent a pipe from freezing is to open a faucet so that a small trickle of water comes out of it. This may work because water flowing
from a warmer area should not freeze as quickly as water that is left to stand in a very cold pipe. In any case, this is also a short term solution, and it
wastes water.
Instant water heaters that are installed beneath each sink are available, although they require a significant amount of energy when hot water is desired. Their biggest
advantage may be that very little cold water is wasted compared to the water wasted while waiting for hot water to come from a water heater.
Inspecting Your Home For Small Openings
You may consider inspecting your walls and foundation all around the house to try to discover areas of heat loss. One very common place is where outside
faucets penetrate the wall. Often, a hole is punched through the outside wall, the faucet pipe installed, and no insulating material is used to make a weatherproof
seal around the pipe. A little caulking can seal small areas like this very easily.
Cat and dog doors may also cause heat loss. In winter, it might be advisable to seal them. However, some of these types of doors are designed to minimize heat
loss, and that loss may be less than the amount lost when the door is opened to let a pet in or out of the house.
If your home has a basement, you may carefully check the seams at the top of the concrete or block walls where the wooden structure begins, to determine if
a tight seal exists all around the walls. Crawl spaces that have access to the outside of the house are usually colder than a basement. You might consider placing
insulation between the floor joists that run across the crawl space if the builder did not do so. Although heat loss through a floor is much less a problem than that
which is lost through a ceiling, insulation beneath a floor can result in warmer floors. Insulating between the joists in a basement is of little value when the basement
temperature is nearly the same as the rooms above it, although it may provide some added sound insulation.
Garages
Where a garage attaches to the house is a potential area of heat loss if the builder did not insulate the garage well. Although most homes built since the 1970s
will have a properly insulated attached garage where the garage walls are common to the house walls, it is a good idea to make sure there are no
sloppy sheetrock joints that will allow cold air from the garage into the walls of the house. This is especially important because the garage temperature will be
approximately that of the outside air, and any water pipes that run in or near garage walls may freeze if there is insufficient insulation.
Another energy-saving tip is to keep the garage door closed as much as possible during winter months. The garage will act like a large insulating airspace.
Always open the garage door before starting an automobile engine. The fumes are deadly, and they can actually penetrate the walls and ceilings of the house if not
allowed to escape through the garage door. Also, do not leave a car's engine running when it is parked in the garage even if the garage door is open. The fumes can
accumulate in the garage. Some models of garage doors provide a little insulation and are designed to fit closely to the garage door frame. Consider an insulated
garage door when the old door is due for replacement.
Kerosene Heaters
There are some considerations to be made before purchasing or using a kerosene heater. If it tips over, an automatic shut off should cut off the flames. If
that shut off fails to work, there could be smoke or fire damage to the home. Such a heater should never be left unattended when it is operating.
These heaters are unvented, and, even with the best anti-pollution devices, there will probably be some pollution given off over a period of time. if you notice that
you always get a headache after a kerosene heater has been in operation in your home, you might consider using it for a shorter period of time. Also, consider having
it checked by a kerosene repair facility to ensure that it is working properly. A kerosene heater uses oxygen inside the home to burn, and over a period of time,
the oxygen level may decrease to an unsafe level. In general, it is not recommended to use kerosene heaters in a closed space. To maintain a good atmosphere
inside a home that has a kerosene heater running, it is advised that a window be opened to allow fresh air enter. However, that may defeat the heating that the
furnace provides. Perhaps it is best to not use a kerosene heater and wear heavy clothing, instead.
Fireplaces
A fireplace can appear very cozy and pleasant. However, an open fireplace may result in loss of room heat rising up the chimney. As a result, your furnace may
actually have to run more often when the fireplace is used. Installing heat-proof glass doors, especially designed to cover the opening in a fireplace, can prevent
much of the heat loss from the room if they are kept shut. Because a fireplace requires oxygen to allow the wood or other fuel to burn, if glass doors are installed
and kept shut when a fire is burning, it is best to have an air supply hole drilled into the fireplace. The hole, perhaps an inch in diameter, should be plugged when the
fireplace is not in use to prevent heat loss from the house and to keep small animals out.
Glass doors help reduce heat loss when the fireplace is not in use. However, chimney flues are traditionally poor air blocks, and when the fireplace is
not in use, it might be wise to stuff some non flammable insulation up into the chimney opening to help reduce the heat loss. Tie a red flag on it so that the flag hangs
down into the fireplace to remind you to remove the insulation before lighting a fire.
Fireplace Inserts
A fireplace insert is a wood or coal stove that is designed to fit in the opening of the fireplace. The advantages of such an installation are that it blocks the
fireplace opening (if properly installed) to prevent warm room air from going up the chimney, it allows the stove to be installed requiring little if any fireproofing of the
wall adjacent to the stove, and it can use the existing fireplace chimney. Some persons do not want to eliminate the scenic fireplace fire, but an insert is much more
energy efficient than a traditional fireplace.
A popular means of transferring fireplace heat to the room is the installation of a hollow, metal box that surrounds the three sides of the fireplace. It has air
ducts at the lower and upper ends so that room air can flow into the bottom ducts, around the inside of the box to get warmed by the fire, and then rise (by convection
or by a blower) to exit through the upper ducts into the room. Such a device is usually installed when the fireplace is built because it becomes part of the sides and
back of the fireplace.
A more simple room air-warming device uses two or three inch diameter metal tubes placed inside the fireplace on the hearth. The lower ends of the tubes
protrude into the room at floor level, allowing room air to be drawn into them, back into the fireplace where the hot pipes warm the air, and then up the back and
forward into the room at the top of the fireplace opening where the heated air exits back into the room. Unfortunately, tubes may not be compatible with fireplace
doors. Both the heater box and the pipes may have blowers installed in them to assist the convection of the air.
Wood Stoves
Free-standing wood-burning stoves have been a popular item in recent years. Installation requires a fireproof surface to place them on, fireproofing any walls that
are close to them, and putting in an insulated chimney pipe. Because wood smoke from fireplaces and wood stoves is perceived to pollute the air more than exhaust from
other heating fuels such as natural gas, propane, or oil, some cities ban the use of fireplaces and wood stoves when the local air quality is poor.
Another aspect of wood stoves is that they tend to heat the room they are in, but other rooms in the home benefit little. Without a system of heat ducts from the
room with the stove, little heat may get distributed throughout the house.
Wood Fuel
Feeding a wood stove is a considerable undertaking, especially if it is a major source of heat during the winter months. Two or three cords of wood can be
consumed during a mild winter. (A cord is a stack of wood 4 feet high, 8 feet wide, and 4 feet deep. A face cord is the same dimension except that it measures
only 2 feet deep.)
Some wood stoves can be converted to coal by inserting a different type of grate. A cord of wood may be purchased from local dealers, or you may cut your
own if there is a source of dead or downed timber in your locale. You can investigate both public and private sources of wood. Check your local newspaper for
individuals who have land to be cleared of timber, and contact the state forest service for information on the availability of wood that can be removed from public
land.
A House Can Be Too Tight
A furnace that is installed in an older house may draw its air from inside the home. In a home that is sealed too tightly, this can cause a problem. The furnace
chimney may not expel the exhaust gasses properly, and these by products of combustion can actually pollute the home.
Although such an occurrence is rare, it does happen, and those persons desiring to tightly seal their home might consider the following idea. This solution,
applied in many new homes, is similar to that described above to provide outside air to the fireplace. A large diameter aluminum duct (sometimes six or eight
inches in diameter) is connected to the outside though a hole in the wall. The other end stops within a foot or so of the furnace air intake. When the furnace runs, it
creates a draft of air. The duct provides outside air to be drawn directly into the furnace, causing less warm air in the home to be lost up the furnace chimney and
preventing a vacuum to form inside a tightly sealed home. The fresh, outside air is heated by the furnace, providing fresh air inside the house.
Too tight a home doesn't allow the inside air to be exchanged with outside air often enough to keep the pollution from hair sprays, bug sprays, other aerosol
containers, and cleaning agents from becoming a problem. Although it is wise to try to seal significant air leaks in the home, making the house too tight can result in
a health hazard. For more information about your specific situation, contact furnace and insulation experts in your area.
Conclusion
There are few hard and fast solutions to home energy savings. Every little bit adds up however, and it can be beneficial to do as many small things to save energy
as possible, especially if they are no-cost or low-cost. Carefully consider the pay-back of high-cost items. You may not own the house long enough to reach the
break even point. Check with your local IRS office or an accountant regarding possible tax incentives for installing energy saving products. Finally, make a list of all
the little things you will do to try to reduce your energy costs and try to compare several months of energy costs before and after your changes to see if your efforts
have made a difference. Don't forget to factor in utility price increases and unusual weather patterns.
Disclaimer
These comments in no way suggest that you will save money or be safe following any of the above suggestions. Before making any changes to the home
environment, consult a physician to ensure there will be no detrimental effects on members and guests of the household. Also, prior to installing or changing any
equipment, consult with professionals in the field to ensure that there will not be any undesirable effects from such changes or products.
The contents of this booklet reflect the author's experience and results through research. The author is not engaged in rendering any legal or professional advice.
The services of a professional person are recommended if advice or assistance is needed. The author disclaims any personal loss or liability caused by utilization
of any information presented herein.