Nikkormat ELW and Nikon EL2 Cameras
The Nikkormat ELW was introduced in 1976. The "W" stands for "winder-compatible," because the camera can be mounted to the AW-1
auto-winder. Other than modifications to accept the winder, it has the same features as the Nikkormat EL, which include aperture priority and the location
of the battery beneath the mirror. Both the EL and ELW have the "EL" logo on the front of the prism housing, but the serial number of the
ELW has a "W" and the bottom of the camera has contacts to accept the AW-1 auto-winder.
The last Nikkormat to be made by Nikon was the EL2, brought out in 1977. Nearly identical to the ELW except for the automatic indexing (AI) metering system,
it is the only camera besides the ELW that can use the AW-1 auto-winder. Most of the EL2s were sold to the Japanese market, and the production run was short,
lasting from late 1977 into 1978. Although this camera is a Nikkormat, Nikon elected to place the "Nikon" logo on the front.
The AW-1 auto-winder is a simple unit that advances the film when the shutter is released. Unlike nearly all Nikon products, it has an Achilles' heel:
the main drive gear is made of nylon and tends to shrink slightly on the motor shaft and split along the longitudinal axis, causing the shaft to spin but not turn the
gear. Authorized Nikon repair facilities received a metal gear from Nikon to replace the original nylon one, but these gears are no longer available. The reason Nikon
used a Nylon gear is because it turns the larger brass gear more quietly than a metal gear.
To test an AW-1, with it removed from the camera, turn it on with the slide switch on the back and short the two contacts on the top by placing something metal
across them. A paper clip works well to short the contacts. If you can hear the motor running, but the film advance gear does not turn, the problem is most likely
a split Nylon drive gear. Although these motors are not economical to repair, if you hanker to tinker, you can disassemble the unit and repair it. Carefully peel off
the imitation leather from the top plate of the AW-1, unscrew and remove that metal plate. The white Nylon gear is visible in a hole next to the brass drive gears.
Use a bent paper clip or similar tool to slide the white nylon gear from the motor shaft.
If the gear is tight to the shaft, perhaps the problem is somewhere else. The Nikon replacement gears were metal, probably brass, colored black. Once the
gear is off, if you are incredibly talented, you can fabricate one of your own from brass stock. However, I opted to have my local machine shop make a couple
of dozen (which cost only slightly more than one). The cost of one of these gears is much more than the value of the AW-1. Using these gears, I have repaired
several AW-1s. Beware of one attribute: the drives are very noisy because of the metal to metal contact between the replacement gear and the winder drive
train. If you shoot wildlife (with a camera), the noise of the drive may scare them away with the same effect of a gunshot. One way to somewhat quiet the AW-1
is to apply a very small amount of grease or oil to it and the the brass gears it drives.
Nikon used these Nylon gears in the MD-2 motor drive for the F2 camera and the MD-E motor drive for the EM camera. I have repair an MD-E using the above
technique, and other people have repaird MD-2 motor drives in the same manner.