Cartier watches
by David Barth
written March 29, 2003
Cartier
The House of Cartier, a true dynasty of style, elegance and fine craftsmanship, was founded in 1847 by Louis-Franois Cartier, master jeweler to Europe's crowned
heads. By the early 20th century, his three grandsons, Louis, Jacques and Pierre, were successfully managing Cartier boutiques in Paris, London and New York.
The first true Cartier wristwatch, the Santos, designed by Louis and named for Alberto Santos-Dumont, a dashing Brazilian aviator, was introduced in 1904. Jeweled
wristwatches followed soon after in 1906. In 1910, Louis created and patented the deployant folding clasp. 1917 saw the introduction of the famous Cartier Tank watch.
Long regarded as the single most important and influential watch design of the 20th century, the distinctive timepiece was designed in tribute to the Allied Tank
commanders who helped defend France during World War I.
In 1933, Cartier was commissioned by the Pasha of Marrakech to create a watch he could wear while swimming. As one of the earliest truly water-resistant designs,
the watch featured an attractive round case of solid gold.
Today, the company's watch designers draw on the astounding design archives left by Louis Cartier, the design genius responsible for many of the house's signature
innovations, patents and collections. Most of the contemporary Cartier collections are based upon Louis distinctive design classics such as the Santos, the Panther,
the Bagnoire, the Pasha, the Tonneau, the Diabolo, and the Tank. Introduced in 1996, the Tank Francaise is widely regarded as a contemporary model of horology and
design mastery. Available in three sizes and offered with a variety of movements from quartz to automatic, the Tank Franaise chronograph features a perpetual calendar
and automatic time zone changing capability.
One of the oldest jewelers in the world, catering to the whims of royalty and movie stars alike, Cartier enjoys a reputation for selling only the finest quality jewelry
and accessories. Nowhere is this philosophy more in evidence than Cartier's highly diverse line of wristwatches, many of which are the most recognizable designs
on the planet. From the Tank or Pasha models, to the finest bejeweled creations for women, there is literally a Cartier for everyone, at almost every price
point.
Cartier was founded in Paris by Louis-Francois Cartier, son of a powder horn maker. The year was 1847; just four short years later, Napoleon III came to power and
through Countess Nieuwerkerke, the young Cartier was able to become a supplier to the court, selling Empress Eugenie a silver tea service in 1859. In the same
year, Cartier rented quarters on the Boulevard des Italiens in what was then the most fashionable neighborhood in Paris. Cartier's jewelry was characterized by a
light, airy touch in contrast to the overly formal and overwrought ornaments of the period.
In 1874, Cartier's son Alfred took over the business and expanded it considerably. That included watches, which Louis-Francois had only dabbled in. In 1899, Alfred's
son Louis Cartier entered the firm. Louis Cartier was a great lover of mechanical pocket watches and wanted the company to build its own watches.
In 1904, Louis Cartier met the Brazilian aviator, Alberto Santos-Dumont, who complained of the unreliability of pocket watches in flight. Cartier rose to the challenge,
designing a flat wristwatch with a distinctive square bezel. This watch was not only a hit with Santos-Dumont, but also with Cartier's many clients. Thus, out of this
timeless design, the "Santos" was born. Incredibly enough, this watch is still produced today in much the same form.
In 1907, Cartier signed a contract with Edmond Jaeger, who agreed to exclusively supply the movements for Cartier watches. By this time, Cartier had branches in
London, New York and St. Petersburg and was quickly becoming one of the most successful watch companies in the world. The introduction of the Baignoire and
Tortue models (both of which are still in production today) took place in 1912, followed by the Tank model's debut in 1917. In 1932, the watertight watch made
especially for the Pasha of Marrakesh - raised the bar even higher. Needless to say, the innovations, both in terms of design and technology, continued
apace.
In the early 1920s Cartier formed a joint company with Edward Jaeger (of the famed Jaeger-Le Coultre company) to produce movements solely for Cartier. Thus was
the famed European watch & clock company born, although Cartier continued to use movements from other great makers. Cartier watches can be found with
movements from Vacheron Constantin, Audemars-Piguet, Movado and Le-Coultre. It was also during this period that Cartier began adding its own reference numbers
to the watches it sold, usually by stamping a four-digit code on the underside of a lug. In fact, many collectors refuse to accept a Cartier as original, unless these
numbers are present.
In 1942, Louis Cartier died and his successors were unable to continue without his artistic genius. As a result, the company became financially and artistically
stagnant. It was only in 1972, when a group of investors took over the company and installed Alain Perrin as its CEO, that the company finally regained lost ground.
Perrin, a former antique dealer, turned the company around. By developing the "Le Must" line, as well as creating new versions of classics such as the "Santos",
Perrin managed to re-establish Cartier as an innovative and fashionable watchmaker.
Today, Cartier's best-sellers include the classic "Tank"; the hot new "Tank Francaise", a sports watch similar in concept to the Santos; the "Pasha", which has
become a very watch for ladies; and the "Panther" which features a highly distinctive bracelet available in 18K gold, stainless steel and gold, or stainless steel.
Needless to say, a Cartier watch is finished to very high standards. The cases and bracelets in particular are meticulously handcrafted and exude quality in every
sense of the word. Yet in spite of the famous brand name and timeless designs, Cartier watches are available in a wide range of prices and styles. If you are
looking for a prestigious name brand that offers a mix of quality craftsmanship and contemporary styling, one need look further than Cartier.