Girard-Perregaux watches
by David Barth
written March 29, 2003
Girard-Perregaux
The history of this prestigious Swiss manufacturer, the second oldest Swiss watch manufacturer, based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, can be traced back to
Jean-Francois Bautte, the famous Geneva watchmaker. Though orphaned at a very young
age, the young man confronted life with determination. In 1791, by the time he was nineteen, Jean-Francois Bautte had learned several trades, acquired the education
which his modest background had denied him, and begun making his first watches. It would not be long before his name became familiar to the royal courts of Europe.
A master watchmaker of rare talent, Jean-Francois Bautte was also an astute "industrialist" and businessman with a brilliant, imaginative and generous character.
He is credited with creating the first genuine ultra-thin watches and the truly visionary concept of the Manufactory as a producer of high-quality timepieces.
Unfortunately, Jean-Francois Bautte did not have a successor or heir to take over his company when he retired. The problem of what to do with the company was
quickly solved when a merger was arranged with another watch manufacturer. In 1854, Constantin Girard married Marie Perregaux. As both came from watchmaking
backgrounds, it seemed perfectly natural to use both names when they formed their own company. So it was that the Girard-Perregaux brand was born, in
1856. In 1880 Constant Girard designed and produced the world’s first production wristwatch for officers of the German navy.
More than just a famous watchmaker, Constantin Girard was also a patriot committed to the republican cause and always ready to devote time and energy to his
beloved town of La Chaux-de-Fonds. Only a few years were needed to establish a reputation that spread as far as the New World. His technical and aesthetic
masterpiece, the "Tourbillon Sous Trois Points d'Or" (translation: Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges), was unquestionably the greatest achievement of a life largely
devoted to the research and development of the art of watchmaking. This amazing pocket watch won Girard-Perregaux two gold medals at the Paris Universal
Exhibitions in 1867 and 1889, and is considered one of the most desirable mechanical watches ever made.
The tradition of innovation initiated by Jean Francois Bautte has been perpetuated to the present day by Girard-Perregaux. Throughout its long history, the
Manufactory has made a number of exciting and innovative contributions to the world of watchmaking. Foremost among these is the concept of the wristwatch.
Although a few pocket watches had already been modified to be worn on the wrist, Girard-Perregaux was the first watchmaker to produce this kind of timepiece
in a series, around 1880.
In 1966 Girard-Perregaux produced the world’s first high-frequency mechanical watch, followed in 1969 by the world’s first mass-produced quartz watch.
The high-frequency mechanical movement, the Gyromatic, has become collectible in its own right. The quartz movement, with a frequency of 32,768 Hertz,
has become the universally accepted standard. In fact, it was Girard-Perregaux's innovations in the realm of quartz timekeeping that allowed it to survive the
Swiss watch industry's economic crisis during the 1970's and 1980's.
Although Girard-Perregaux did not thrive during the 1970's and early 1980's, unlike other Swiss watch companies, Girard-Perregaux not only survived fully intact, but
emerged even stronger than before and fiercely determined to continue producing high-quality mechanical timepieces using in-house movements. At a time when
many prestigious Swiss companies were looking to outside suppliers for their raw movements, Girard-Perregaux simply would not compromise quality to improve
the bottom line.
The company's massive efforts to upgrade their factory, while training a new generation of master watchmakers to produce the highest quality wristwatches, was
clearly a gamble but one which paid off handsomely when consumers re-discovered the pleasures of wearing traditionally hand-finished mechanical
timepieces.
Girard-Perregaux's master watchmakers continued their efforts in the early 1980's. After extensively studying an original model acquired at auction, the watchmakers
revived the expertise, which had originally created the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges pocket watch. To make a replica of this marvel, however, they had to think
in modern terms and re-design all the components. Although computers would prove helpful in the design phase, the watchmakers nonetheless had to re-learn all the
traditional crafts and skills that had died along with the masters.
In 1991, on the occasion of its 200th anniversary, the company achieved the amazing feat of adapting the technology of the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges to a
wristwatch version. Several variations have been produced since then. These watches, which are completely handmade in Girard-Perregaux's workshops, are amazing
works of mechanical art, and the Three Bridges, which are cast in solid gold, are stunningly beautiful to behold. Some six to eight months of continuous work are
needed to produce such a watch, with the House's most talented senior watchmakers meticulously crafting each component by hand, assembling the movement,
testing the complicated mechanism and finally casing up the completed movement in a massive gold or platinum case. As of this writing, only 20 such Tourbillon
wristwatches have been produced to date.
Needless to say, watch lovers around the world quickly took notice of the company's amazing comeback, and the company capitalized even further on its newfound
success by obsessively dedicating itself to the production of wristwatches of the highest quality at extremely competitive prices. Moreover, in 1993, Girard-Perregaux
signed a co-branding arrangement with the celebrated Italian car manufacturer, Ferrari, which has yielded a remarkable line of sporty chronographs.
Along with the Ferrari chronographs, the company's other popular models include the Vintage Men's automatic, which features an in-house Girard-Perregaux 3000
self-winding calibre; the Chronograph 9000, featuring a refined self-winding movement which can be viewed through a sapphire-crystal back; and the Olympic Chrono
1992, which boasts an in-house Girard-Perregaux chronograph movement.
In summary, Girard-Perregaux offers one of the highest quality wristwatches available in the contemporary watch marketplace. Best of all, these watches can be
obtained at very favorable prices for collectors.
Watch models:
Equation
ww.tc - has a world time function. Available in yellow, pink, or white gold, the case has a crown on the left to operate the rotating
world time bezel. The cream-colored dial features large applied numerals and a contrasting 24-hour day/night circle.
Sea Hawk
Girard Highlights:
1880 - world's first production wristwatch
1966 - world's first high-frequency mechanical watch
1969 - world's first mass-produced quartz watch
Girard Perregau Watch